Solder is engineered to be heated only once. It will look like a backward horseshoe print inside the pipe. Water flowing over this ridge if not removed causes the water to swirl like an undertow in a river and it will actually eat through the pipe. That's what the copper association called it when they came to Purdue for a seminar years ago. It also causes a phenomenon called hydraulic jump. After you cut a piece of pipe with a tubing cutter a sharp ridge will be at the end inside. this IS very important! Home depot sells a yellow plastic handled reaming tool for about six bucks. I sure hope you are reaming the tubing after it has been cut. ![]() We use a flux called NO CORRODE, it seems to work good. Maybe what I'm using is just fine but I prefer to work with the best when possible.Īlso, what works for a brush? I've been using acid brushes but I seem to melt them quickly if I go back over a joint with flux to clean it up a bit. Just using Oatey as an example, what's the difference between their paste flux and their tinning flux? Different purposes? Again, any suggestions on flux? Works ok once it's applied but I'd prefer an easier application. This makes it hard to get out of the tin with a brush. I don't like it because it seems much harder than necessary. I have been using Oatey #95 tinning flux. Just general copper fittings and pipe for around the house. ![]() I'm looking for suggestions on what brand/part number to use for both. I just ran out of solder and I'm not liking the flux I have. Getting better every time at sweating copper. I'm a weekend warrior with plumbing around the house and helping friend out.
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